Choosing a Backplate & Wing
Why choosing a backplate and wing makes sense vs. a traditional BCD
If you’ve read any of my articles over the last 15+ years, you may have noticed two things I cover often are (1) buoyancy control and trim, and (2) a minimalist approach to gear configuration. It is fairly obvious to most divers that buoyancy control is important. Trim is often treated as an element of buoyancy control. I don’t personally view it quite that way, but set that aside for the moment.
My minimalist dive gear approach supports good buoyancy control and trim, and also reduces drag and encourages the best possible fit. As an added benefit, minimizing dive gear means you’ll be lugging around less bulky and heavy equipment. That’s not only easier to manage, but can also reduce travel expenses.
What dive gear you actually need
To start, scuba gear is pretty universal. It includes a tank, regulator and buoyancy control device (BCD). Beyond that, you need to be able to see, move around and keep warm. Fundamentally, there’s not that much to it. However, there are countless dive gear choices and new products are released every day.
In my experience, the most variation in function comes from the BCD. Fundamentally, a scuba tank holds air and one regulator works like most every other regulator. The same is true for your mask, fins and wetsuit. I will concede that a dry suit can be complex as well, but even with a dry suit, your choice of BCD is the primary factor in controlling trim.
What’s the best BCD for diving?
My post title is an obvious spoiler alert. I’ll be bold and say any normal-size diver that wants to have the best possible trim (and buoyancy control) should be diving in a backplate and wing.
Trim is everything in diving. Divers talk all the time about having “good buoyancy,” but they really mean is buoyancy control. And, typically, what you really notice about good divers is their position in the water. That’s trim, and there is on one way to achieve it, and that’s weight placement.
A backplate and wing allows for almost limitless options for distributing weight. The plate itself has weight, and most backplate/wing systems have two tank bands, either of which (or both) can carry trim pockets. You would typically carry some amount of ditch-able weight in waist pockets like the Dive Rite weight pockets I reviewed in another article.
A traditional BCD distributes most, or all of your weight down low—close to the diver’s waist. Best case, you’ll have two trim pockets, either on a single tank band, or behind your shoulder blades. For 90% of divers, it is simply placed too low.
What is perfect trim in diving?
Trim refers to your body position in the water. You should be level, with your fins slightly up, without any kicking and flailing with your hands. At rest, you should be still and stable. If not, you’ll be forced to compensate throughout your dive.
Most divers have no idea what perfect trim feels like, or what perfect trim even should feel like. The truth is, trim is more a function of weight placement than diving skill. For most divers, choosing a backplate and wing over a traditional BCD will transform your diving. However, if you make the transition, you’ll also need to be committed to the time and effort it takes to achieve a perfect fit and weight configuration.
The best backplate and wing BCD for your diving
A backplate and wing BCD is modular. It is made up of the backplate itself, a buoyancy cell (wing), harness, weight system and tank mounting system. All of these components are interchangeable. This allows you to reconfigure your buoyancy control system to match the diving conditions and other gear you’ll be using. Let’s break it down.
The scuba diving backplate
There’s not much to a backplate. Most are either aluminum or stainless steel (I am working on introducing a titanium backplate. Hopefully soon!). Although, the backplate’s function is to act as the mounting platform for your harness, weights, buoyancy cell (wing) and scuba tank, you should also consider it as part of your weighting system.
All backplates have a series of holes and slots to accommodate webbing, tank mounts, crotch strap and specialty items if any. The first choice you’ll want to make is which material: aluminum or stainless steel. For the most part, which you choose will be a function of weight.
An aluminum backplate will weight between 1.75 and 2 pounds. Most stainless steel backplates weigh 5.75 to 6 pounds. I’ll cover some exceptions in a minute. The important thing is that weight is distributed up and across you back. Compared to a traditional BCD, a backplate will always be negatively buoyant. Many traditional BCDs have padding that actually adds floatation in this area. YOU DO NOT WANT THAT.
If your BCD carries additional buoyancy from padding, even an aluminum backplate will likely allow you to remove 4-6 pounds of lead. That alone is reason enough to switch.
If you dive in cold water, especially if you use a dry suit, your weight requirements can be significant. As an example, let’s assume you use 30 pounds of lead when diving in cold water with a traditional BCD. If that BCD is padded, you can likely reduce it to 26 pounds. The traditional BCD will tend to orient you in a head up position. Trim pockets will mostly just offset the buoyancy of the padding.
If your traditional BCD allows it, you’ll be able to position 5 pounds in trim pockets somewhere behind your shoulder blades. The remaining 20 pounds will all need to be placed in the ditch-able weight pockets at your waist. If your natural swimming orientation is feet down, there will no practical means to reposition lead. You’re basically stuck with what you get. In warm water the problem is less severe.
Compare that to a backplate and wing. Right off, you will have reduced the weight requirement by eliminating unnecessary padding. Instead of 30 pounds of additional weight, you now only need 26. If you choose a typical stainless steel backplate, 6 of those pounds are made up of the plate itself. Now, you’re down to 20 pounds of additional lead. Dropping 10 pounds of lead is HUGE!
There is no floatation working against you from padding, so your weight requirement will be only the sum of your thermal protection and your body make up.
Weight placement with a backplate and wing
Now, we can focus on weight placement. Almost all backplate and wing diving systems utilize two tank bands. The top one will be higher up (toward the tank valve) than most traditional BCDs. Placing trim pockets on the tank bands allows you to fine tune your trim. You’ll always want ditch-able weight in case of an emergency. Out of the 20 pounds total, let’s put 10 pounds in ditch-able weight pockets at your waist.
That leaves 10 pounds that can be placed in trim pockets along your back. If your feet tend to sink, move trim weight higher. If your hover position tends to be head-down, you can move trim weight to the other tank band or down to your waist.
Your body in the water works like a scale. If it tips to one side, you balance it by putting weight on the other side. You should always be neutrally buoyant, so weight placement is the key. If you are feet down, put weight up higher. If you are head down, put weight lower. You can control roll the same way, since weight can be positioned on your left or right side.
Titanium backplates
As mentioned, titanium is also an option for a backplate material. Titanium backplates behave pretty much like aluminum backplates. Titanium is slightly heavier, but the currently available backplates (from Helium Dive) are a little thinner, so I suspect they also weigh right around 2 pounds. The great thing about titanium is it won’t corrode at all. I have my fingers crossed that I’ll be able to release my JoeScuba titanium backplates soon!
SubGravity 6mm backplate
One of my favorite backplates for cold water diving is the SubGravity 6mm backplate. It weighs a whopping 10.1 pounds! All that weight is distributed along you back and allows a reduction of lead weight of over 4 pounds. It is also brilliantly finished and uses 316 stainless, which is very corrosion resistant.
SubGravity also offers a standard backplate that has horizontal slots to accommodate their specialized trim pocket that fits into them using velcro. These are very cool and more streamlined than placing weight pockets on tank bands.
The only downside to me is when traveling, I like to pull weights out of my trim pockets when changing tanks. The SubGravity pockets are more difficult to access. No big deal, really, bit it’s worth mentioning.
Dive Rite XT Lite Backplate
The Dive Rite XT Lite Backplate comes in two versions. One is the standard size, with an additional variation that’s a little shorter. What’s unique about the XT Lite is that it is a skeletonized version of a standard stainless steel backplate. Removing metal reduces weight without any practical impact on durability. While not quite as light as aluminum, stainless holds up better in salt water.
The standard version of the XT Lite Backplate weights 2 lbs, 9.4 oz. The short version of the XT Lite backplate weighs 2.3 pounds. Both are constructed using 316 stainless steel, which is much preferred over 304 stainless steel used in cheaper backplates.
I like the XT Lite a lot for travel, but I already have so many aluminum backplates, I haven’t switched.
Dive Rite also offers a standard stainless steel backplate without the additional cutouts for weight reduction. The choice depends on your weight requirements.
Other Backplates and Materials
If you look around, you’ll find carbon fiber backplates, composite backplates and some that are cut down to the shape of a dog bone. Any of these might make sense for your individual diving. For the most part, I’d stick to the most common, standard stainless steel or aluminum backplates until some specific diving need dictates otherwise.
Consider your backplate material choice as part of your weighting system. Most divers don’t need to reduce weight for diving, but for airline baggage limits. However, if you’re travel plans have you diving without a wetsuit, or using lycra or a shorty, you’ll probably want to use an aluminum backplate.
Choosing a wing for your backplate and wing diving system
The “wing” in a BP/W (backplate and wing) diving system is an air cell similar to that of a traditional BCD. Traditional BCDs are often distinguished as “jacket style”, “rear inflate” or “back inflate.” Generally, “jacket style” BCDs have some buoyancy under the diver’s arms. The idea is that they float the diver vertically on the surface, which some find comforting. Back or rear-inflate BCDs put the buoyancy cell behind the diver, which contributes to better trim underwater. Backplate and wing BCDs are all rear-inflate.
The concept of being vertical on the surface is overstated in my view. Because of weight placement and the weight of the scuba tank and regulator first stage, most divers will float head up on the surface regardless of which BCD they choose.
Underwater, rear-inflation BCDs almost always contribute to improved trim.
Types of diving wings (buoyancy cells)
Diving wings are divided into several types. The first diving wings were developed by cave divers and were all intended to be used with double tank configurations. Wings that are intended for back-mounted doubles are wide enough not to trap air between the diver and side by side cylinders. However, when used with a single scuba cylinders, doubles wings wrap around the sides of the tank. This “taco” effect can impact your trim and also looks ridiculous.
Scuba wings made for single cylinders are much narrower. A well designed “singles wing” will hold air close to the diver’s back. This improves trim and contributes to stability underwater. For this article, I’m focused on backplate and wing configurations for recreational divers.
There are also specialized wings for rebreathers, as well as several versions for sidemount diving. None of these matter to single tank, recreational divers. I’ve written about some of these in previous articles. For all types of back-mount diving, you have a choice of a “horseshoe wing” or a “donut wing.” This refers to their shape.
Horseshoe Wing: The horseshoe shaped wing’s air cell, or buoyancy cell is shaped like and upside-down “U.” What’s relevant about that is gas can only transfer from one side to the other at the top of the wing. That means if you are diving in a head down position, air will be trapped on each side if you rotate left or right.
Donut Wing: A donut wing has an air cell (buoyancy cell), or bladder that is oval or circular in shape. This allows air to pass from side to side regardless of where the diver is oriented head up or head down.
Current wisdom tends to favor the donut wing over the horseshoe wing. The idea being that air trapped on one side leads to trim problems and potentially could prevent a diver from dumping air under some circumstances. As for trim, the opposite might actually be more true, since air rushing to one side also causes your center of buoyancy to rush to that side.
The trapped air venting problem might be more valid, but most wings will have a bottom dump valve on one side. Just the same, it is hard to imagine a circumstance where that’s a genuine safety issue. Being wedged in a tight spot in a wreck or cave is one, but for recreational divers it’s a nonissue.
Personally, I own and dive both types of wings regularly and don’t have a real preference. For doubles and rebreather diving, I currently use a horseshoe wing, and for single tank diving, a donut. Here’s a quick rundown of my single tank wings:
Dive Rite Travel XT Wing
I have made hundreds of dives using the Dive Rite Travel XT Wing. I love it for many reasons. The version I have is made up Dive Rite’s “Superfabric” and is compact, rugged and looks cool on a dive boat. If you want “advanced diver” cred, the Dive Rite Travel XT Wing is a great choice.
The Travel XT Wing carries 25 pounds of lift and is somewhat narrow and tall, which keeps air close to the diver’s back. As such, it is an easy wing to dial in for trim. This is a donut-style wing.
OMS Performance Mono Wing
For years, the 32 pound lift version was my main cold water, single tank diving wing. I still use it and find it wide enough to use with my rebreather. It is also a donut-style wing. I haven’t used the 27 lb lift version of the OMS Performance Mono Wing, but it is narrower, which makes me believe it is a better option unless you really need the 5 lbs of additional lift.
One observation I have is both wings carry buoyancy higher up than I feel is necessary. The only circumstance where I have found this to be an issue is diving with my rebreather, and it was never intended for that in the first place.
I am a big fan of OMS dive gear, and the OMS Performance Mono Wing is no exception. It is a well priced, high quality wing and I recommend it without hesitation.
DGX Gears S1 Singles Wing
Another diving wing that’s worth mentioning in the DGX Gears S1 Singles Wing. I have used the S1 in both warm and cold water extensively. What I love about it is its tall, narrow profile. This not only keeps your center of buoyancy very close to the tank, it pushes lift toward the bottom, which makes a big difference to your trim.
The DGX Gears S1 Singles Wing and the OMS Performance Mono Wing both have sewn-in tabs that stabilize the cylinder with out the use os a single tank adapter (STA). Although, I prefer to use one for reasons I’ll discuss shortly.
A couple notable things about the DGX Gears S1 Singles Wing that are worth mentioning. First, you can only get it from Dive Gear Express. DGX Gears is their house brand. That said, Dive Gear Express is a top-notch retailer with unmatched customer service and great prices. The DGX Gears S1 Singles Wing is only $239.
I also happen to know the exact same wing is sold under a more famous brand name for double the price.
I’ve included these single tank wings because I own and dive with all three. If I were to choose just one, I’d be on the fence between the Dive Rite XT Travel Wing and the DGX Gears S1 Singles Wing. Both are fantastic in the water, but the Dive Rite uses their “Superfabric” which is tough as nails. On the other hand it is a lot more expensive.
Obviously, there are dozens, if not hundreds of wings on the market. My advise is to look for features that I’ve mentioned that stand out to you and stick to name brands. Arguably, DGX Gears isn’t a name brand in diving gear per se, but Dive Gear Express stands by everything they sell.
Harness for backplate & wing diving
All true backplate & wing diving configurations will use a harness that’s threaded through the slots in the backplate. The simplest is called the “hogarthian harness” named for cave explorer, Bill “Hogarth” Main (https://xray-mag.com/content/interview-bill-hogarth-main).
The hogarthian harness consists of a single length of 2” nylon webbing that starts at the buckle and threads up one side, around the back and down the other shoulder to form both shoulder straps and the waist strap. In it’s most rigid form, the rig will have d-rings on each shoulder and a third on your left waist.
More liberal configurations include additional d-rings, quick-releases, adjustable shoulder straps and the possible addition of a chest strap. You can configure your harness however you prefer. I tend to prefer a harness very similar to the hogarthian original, but with a waist d-ring on both sides. The single left d-ring is an accommodation for a canister light, and I like being able to clip a spool or reel on the left. I always clip my pressure gauge on the left.
More recently, I’ve added a chest strap to my rebreather harness for stability and to keep the counter-lungs as close to my body as possible throughout the dive.
I have a quick release on one harness that I use for cold water. This makes it easier to get out of in a dry suit and also if I need out of my rig in an instant while working with students.
A final note on backplate harnesses, there are many commercially available configurations. The OMS Deluxe Harness uses incredibly stuff webbing, and includes a chest strap, quick release and 2 chest d-rings on each side. Others are simpler. DGX offers a simple, hogarthian style harness that doesn’t include any extra crap. Please comment or email me if you’d like to discuss your individual configuration.
All commercial harnesses I am aware of have a grommet in the middle, for the tank mounting bolt to pass through. That bolt could be part of a single tank adapter (STA) or, traditionally tank bands for doubles. Years ago, I switched to buying bulk webbing, so there’s no grommet. To get around that, I use a hot punch to cut a hole instead.
Someone got in my grill about it several years ago calling that a weak spot in my harness. Given that the tensile strength of the webbing, even with the hole, is hundreds of times the breaking strength of my rib cage, I’m going to humbly suggest it is a nonissue.
Using a single tank adapter (STA)
A single tank adapter is simply a means for connecting your backplate to your single tank. Since backplate holes are intended to mate with doubles tank bands, in some cases, an adapter is helpful, if not required. The most common STA is a U-shaped stainless steel or aluminum channel with bolts spaced 11 inches apart. On the other side, there are slots for you to thread your cam bands.
With this type of STA, you stick the bolts through the harness like you would a set of doubles and use wing nuts to hold them together. Your wing goes in between.
The other type of STA is made by OMS. OMS calls it the OMS Soft Stabilizing Adapter. To use it, you utilize the cam band slots in your backplate. Book screws can be used to keep the OMS STA in place. I used 316 stainless steel nuts and bolts.
I like the OMS Soft Stabilizing Adapter a lot because it is compact an lightweight for travel and also hold the tank closer to your back. That said, I use both types. The more common type of STA is better for going back and forth between a dingle tank, doubles and CCR.
Backplate and wing weight pocket options
The final component of a recreational backplate and wing scuba system is ditch-able weight pockets. I personally prefer Dive Rite QR Weight Pockets. I use the 16 lb (combined) version for cold water and the 12 lb (combined) version in warm water. At least, for the most part. I also have a system with OMS weight pockets. Honestly, the Dive Rite weight pockets are better. Rather than go into great detail here, read my Dive Rite QR Weight Pocket Review.
Building your backplate & wing diving system
Wow! This is a long article. If you’ve read this far, I have to assume you are genuinely interested in pursuing backplate and wing diving. If you dive in both warm and cold water, you might eventually want a separate backplate and harness for each one. The wing and STA can be used for both. The main issue is the bulk of your exposure suit, and of course, weighting considerations.
The great thing about using backplate and wing is that your system will be configured exactly to your individual needs and fit better than any other configuration. It is impossible to describe the feeling of stability and absolute control provided by a perfectly fitted harness.
I am often asked about padding, since the webbing seems to some like it would be uncomfortable. In truth, most divers wear wetsuits or dry suits, which provide all the padding you could need. Even in bare skin, your BP/W diving system will be weightless in the water. 2” webbing is wide enough that most divers are surprised that they don’t miss the padding at all. Padding is available, however, so if you want it, get it.
In the end, diving with a backplate & wing has many benefits over a traditional BCD. There isn’t much difference in cost, and often, the BP/W will be the cheaper option. The tradeoff is that configuring your harness for the first time takes patience. It also won’t fit anyone but you. On the other hand, you’ll be a better diver for at and you’ll look cool on the boat.
I’d love to hear your thoughts!